About Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello (the little dark one) is dialectal Tuscan for a particular Sangiovese clone most often grown in Montalcino, south of both Chianti and Siena. The ancient walled city, whose name means "the mountain of the holm-oaks" has a rich history that includes struggles against the Florentines and the Spanish empire. This circular territory, delimited by the Orcia, Asso, and Ombrone valleys, has a diameter of 16 kilometers and a surface area of 24,362 hectares. As you will learn below, there is no finer residence to extract complexity from the Sangiovese grape.
While vineyards are believed to have graced the rolling hills of Montalcino as early as the 10th century, the history of Brunello di Montalcino is relatively short by Italian wine standards. Many of the estates in the region trace their lineage back several centuries, but Brunello is just 150 years old. Up until the 1500’s the wine of the region was a sweet white from the Muscat grape labeled Moscadello di Montalcino and was followed by wines made from the traditional Tuscan varietals Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Trebbiano, and Malvasia. The birth of Brunello dates to the mid-1800’s when Clemente Santi took an isolated Sangiovese clone and planted the vines on what would become the legendary family estate, Il Greppo.
With its growth, Brunello became recognized as the ultimate expression of the Sangiovese grape in that it combines power, concentration, complexity, and personality that few Chiantis or Vino Nobile di Montepulcianos can match. However, it is not the clone itself that is responsible for this. Among the contributing factors are soil composition, climatic conditions, altitudes, and ageing requirements set by the DOCG. In the Montalcino zone the soil will generally contain more sand and limestone than soils farther north in the region of Chianti. The climate is another decisive factor, as there is a significant shift from the damper, cooler, continental climate of Chianti Classico to a more dry, heat-infused Mediterranean environment that is cooled by air currents formed by the Montalcino hills and shelter provided by Tuscany’s highest peak, Mount Amiata. It is these influences that enhance the muscularity of the Sangiovese grape, in turn making a more rich, dark, concentrated, and delicious red (heavier and more tannic than Chianti). The tongue-curling tannins and firm acidity allow these wines to age and have captured the attention of wine collectors worldwide. The longevity of wines from this area was tested by Clemente’s grandson Ferruccio Biondi-Santi when he laid down significant quantities of the 1888 and 1891 vintages. These have proven their endurance through countless tastings, even one hundred years after their bottling. While the Santi family had this early vision, it wasn’t until the 1960’s that Brunello began to show its grandeur thanks to the early efforts of the Costanti estate and Giovanni Colombini of Fattoria dei Barbi, among others.
The Montalcino production zone can be broken down into a range of subzones. Within each there are variations in altitude, soil composition, and weather patterns. In fact, the Consorzio lists more than 24 distinct microclimates in the area. In addition to this range of elements there is an array of styles from each producer that make it difficult to examine terroir in a side-by-side comparison.
Spotlight on Montalcino
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