Italian wine, like food, is simultaneously no big deal and the biggest deal possible. Eating a sun-ripened, bright red tomato is at once unremarkable for the many times one does it and equally remarkable each time for its deliciousness, for the miracle that is a perfect tomato. Cooking a gorgeous meal is a daily endeavor, and expected—and insomuch as eating well happens all the time, it is not exceptional, though it’s never less than fulfilling. Like the love of your family: you don’t usually think of it as a special treat, but you need it and thrive because of it all the same. Wine is like bread and salt: without it, dinner is incomplete. —Sergio Esposito Passion on the Vine